An Argentine Adventure

Final Thoughts

2009-08-24T03:40:00.000-07:00

It has been nearly a week since I left Rosario headed for the States. My travel took me from Rosario, through Buenos Aires, on to DC, and finally to Houston. Only yesterday I returned to Maryville College and started what seems to be a two day move-in for my Senior year. Already I've had friends ask me about my stay in Argentina, and already it has been difficult to give more than a superficial answer that in no way truly characterizes my feelings.

In the end it boils down to this: I loved living in Rosario. I made many great friends and became comfortable with the city. Long conversation, meals for hours, and late nights out with friends all of which I enjoyed. What I wouldn't give now not to feel rushed at a restaurant to order, eat, and get out! I want the inattentive waiter, the meal that takes to long to cook, several refills of beer or wine, and café at the end with a little bit of soda to wash it down with. In Argentina I found people that were more friendly with me after a few minutes than some people I've know for years in the States. And, I must honestly say that I feel more close to the friends I made there in two months than most of the friends I have have here.

Not to be too cliché, but it was in many ways an overwhelming experience. Of course, comparisons have to be made between the U.S. and Argentina. There are many difficult things about Argentina: the government, low pay and high prices, the government, corruption and a lack of ethical thinking, and the government. But perhaps these are things that can be considered and changed, or at least worked around. There is no other place I have visited to which I would rather return more than Rosario. I can't wait for my next Argentine Adventure!

Chau.

And Now the End is Near...

2009-08-11T06:08:00.000-07:00

This will be my last post from Argentina, unless of course something extra-spectacular occurs. I have only a few things to say and a couple of pictures to post. Then, once I have returned to the States, I will post one last time to draw this travel blog to a close with all the necessary reflections, etc.

Last weekend was filled with friends and touristy events. Several teachers at ARICANA along with a couple of students took me on the Ciudad de la Rosario ship for a two hour cruise of the Rio Párana. At first the day was a bit overcast, but by the second half of the trip the sky had cleared and it proved to be a gorgeous day. I was able to get several very good shots of the city while on the boat and from the top of the Flag Memorial which we visited after the boat trip.

For the first time perhaps in my life, I stayed out with some friends until about six o'clock in the morning. Now, to a regular US kid that might seem like a very long time to be out around the city but not so for young Argentines. Whereas in the States we may go out around nine or ten and return home around three or four. In Argentina you go out at the earliest around one and often return at six or later. I am told that some people just stay up for the next day instead of bothering to try to sleep. I have to say that, though I enjoy and wish to continue many of the Argentine customs I have become familiar with here, I would prefer to leave this specific custom of sleep deprivation to the Argentines.

Sunday was the celebration of "Children's Day" in which families get together and have large meals. I was invited by the Academic Director at ARICANA to go with her family over to a friends house for a big meal of fiambres, pig cooked in the parilla, typical salads, and wonderful wine. I had a great time and returned in the evening back to my apartment very tired from a busy week and weekend.

Well, as I said, I will post one last time once I am back in the States. The next week will be busy saying goodbye to friends and students at ARICANA, so things should be great. Enjoy the pics.

Chau.

The Joyous Land

2009-08-05T06:40:00.000-07:00

I have in fact returned to Rosario, that beautiful city on the Rio Párana. It was quite a laboured decision to return; however, despite the unfortunate circumstances that have led to my removal from and subsequent return to Rosario, I am very glad to be back. It is such a beautiful city with wonderful people, and I feel very comfortable here. I hope to accomplish a few things that I was not able to in my first stint in Rosario: namely, I would like to try the local seafood, visit the top of the Flag Memorial, and find something newly pretentious to bring home for my friends to joke about when I return to school.

I’m also working a little extra at ARICANA, visiting as many classes as possible before I leave. Next week I will also begin with a series of presentations in promotion of a study tour from ARICANA to Maryville College. There are two trips which consist of several weeks of intensive English study at Maryville College and then a week of tourism at Disney World for the younger students and New York/Washington D.C. for the older students. I’m really looking forward to receiving student from Argentina in January and February. It will be my chance to show them some of the hospitality they have shown me during my stay in their country.

Yesterday evening and this morning the institute received a guest speaker, Else Hamayan. She spoke about several issues and methods in teaching English as a second language. I found it very interesting and it has started me thinking on something: one of the objectives of this trip was to taste a bit of the teaching English as a second/foreign language experience--to see if I thought I would like to further pursue such a career. Though I have enjoyed being in the classrooms and even teaching on my own several times, I have to say that I am not as interested in the actual teaching experience as I am simple linguistics--the was in which ideas are presented and perceived in different ways in accordance with the norms of different languages. These aspects are of direct use for my composition of poetry in which I must find new ways to describe complex ideas and be able to understand the composition of the very language in which I am writing in order to use it most effectively and efficiently.

I’ll be around Rosario for another week and a few days. Then on the 16th I will take the long flight back to the States. I’m really looking forward to my senior year at Maryville College, but not necessarily finding a way to pay for it! : )

Chau.

In the Waiting Line

2009-07-27T10:44:00.000-07:00

No big new to report, my travel has been in kind of a slow down over the last week. I'm still in Buenos Aires planning to return to the States Friday/Saturday but there are some complications with the purchasing of my return ticket that have not been completely sorted out yet. I should know in the next day or two the final scoop. No worries, things seem to work out one way or the other down here.

It has only been over the last week that I have felt any strong feelings of what otherwise might be described as "homesickness". I can tell that it centers around two fairly normal phenomenon in my life. First, I have the curious habit of enjoying school, and about this time during the summer I am ready to return to classes. Perhaps it is more of a desire for companionship with my classmates than I would readily admit, but my brain also just seems to become board over summer holiday. I need more of a mental stimulus than books. Secondly, I have noticed in my life and in those of others that once the end of a period begins its eminent approach, there is an increasing desire to get it over and move on to the next enterprise. It's the concept of Senior-itis applied to all situations with an end point. Thus, I want to come back to the States as soon as possible simply because I know that soon I will be going back to the States.

Another curious habit of mine is to read books while I'm away on vacation or otherwise visiting a new and interesting place. I may enjoy doing this because instead of seeking out the most touristy places to visit I prefer to explore what it feels like to really live in a new place, the ordinary way, through simple, regular living. Maybe that is why I enjoy a good book in a foreign land. Until about two weeks ago I had refrained from reading any large amount of literature in English--allowing the regular reading of a translation of Petrarch's sonnets. But about a week and a half ago I gave in a started reading a translation of the Argentine writer Jorge Luis Borges' Ficciones. Since then I have finished the Ficciones and have started and just completed A Portrait of the Artist as a Young Man by James Joyce. With just a few days to go until I return to the States, I may try to hold off any further reading--then again, this is the summer, my most open time for reading. We shall see.

Well, I'll leave any more or less great reflections on my time spent in Argentina for when I have actually returned to the States. That time could be within the next week or two, or it could be prolonged for another month.

Chau.

The Tomb and Other Things

2009-07-22T07:07:00.000-07:00

I have now been in Buenos Aires for a full week. If I haven't said it already, it is quite a change from Rosario. The city seems to be a mass expanse of roads and buildings that slowly transforms into "neighborhoods". But do not be deceived, these neighborhoods are not your cozy little two or three bedroom homes surrounded by a bright yard of green grass containing an oak tree in the front and a swing-set in the back. No, they are small houses smashed up against one another, complete only with a stone courtyard of sorts on which to have an Asado. (That part I really like!) All in all, it's the difference between living in NYC and the suburbs of Houston. But, the suburbs do have picturesque cobblestone roads that are pleasant enough.

I should let you know that I have been staying with a very hospitable family in the suburb of Lomas since I have moved from Rosario. The family consists of Cecilia, the mother, Nicolás, the eldest son, and Joachin, the youngest son. Cecilia teaches private English classes at several different businesses around BsAs, and I have accompanied her on a couple of occasions to give her students some experience speaking with a native English speaker. Joachin has kindly given up his room for me, and Nicolás (who is only a year younger than me) has invited me to hang out with he and his friends. They are very friendly, and I am glad to have found such pleasant hosts.

Now, on to the main event: This past Monday I had planned to go into the city to visit the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes (the Fine Arts Museum). Unfortunately, I missed a memo or something and discovered that the museum, and in fact most museums I was told, was closed on Mondays. So, what better to do when your plans are thwarted than to visit the local cemetery. (The picture of a large metal flower that you see at the end of this post was created by a famous Argentine architect and is in a park near the Museo -- it opens and closes with the sunlight)

Of course, this was not your run of the mill cemetery. The Recoleta Cemetery holds the remains of some of the most famous people in Argentine history: Pellegrini, Mitre, and -- who was it that doesn't want Argentina to cry -- oh yeah, Evita. It was a strange feeling walking around such massive tombs, many quite ornate but still succumbing to the passing of time. Juxtaposed with this sombre, reverential aire were hundreds of tourists chatting, laughing, taking pictures with arms around graves.

Typically I have some aversion to taking pictures of certain things or in certain situations. For instance, no matter how beautiful or famous, I do not like taking pictures in cathedrals. First of all, it is quite irreverent, and secondly, the picture only serves to degrade the magnificence of a more magnificent beauty of memory in the future. Cemeteries fall into a similar category for me; however, I did eventually decided to take a few snapshots despite my moral objections. And Evita's tomb...not that impressive.

Chau.

When In Argentina

2009-07-15T15:15:00.000-07:00

You know that old saying, "When in Rome do as the Romans do." Well, over the last couple of weeks I have forcibly had this maxim applied to my life in Argentina. Don't get me wrong, I am all for trying new things: eating new foods, going to new places, learning new customs, etc. However, the feeling is quite a bit different when, say, your actual stay in a country is involved. I will explain.

As you read in my last post, the occurrence of Swine Flu in Argentina has caused the government to shut down all educational facilities. Though it seems their fear is a bit exaggerated, I understood this when it happened and, as a temporary resident of this great country of Argentina, I tried my best to adapt to an uncertain situation. What occurred next, however, has caused a bit of trouble for me.

This past Friday, I was asked to leave ARICANA on the grounds that my family must be worried about the health situation and the institution did not feel they could continue feeling responsible for me under such circumstance. What was more, I was told I would have to leave my apartment in three days. If I wanted to stay in Argentina I could do so, but at my own expense and without connection to the institute. So I began looking for people with which to stay.

Unfortunately, in the few days I had in Rosario I was unable to say goodbye to all of the friends I had there. But now, almost a week later, I have relocated to the capital city of Buenos Aires and am staying with a very nice family with whom I have become acquainted through Robert Hutchens, an administrator and friend at Maryville College. I do not know exactly what I will be doing here or how long I will stay, but it is most likely that I will be returning to the States a couple of weeks earlier than originally planned.

I must say that I was very sorry to have left Rosario. The friends I made there were more kind and generous than I could ever have imagined. Although at times the barrier of language caused us to stumble in our conversation, their patience and willingness to explain to me the differences in their culture has created in me a strong attachment. All that I can say is that I hope to return soon to these wonderful people (perhaps with better Spanish skills).

Chau.

In Sickness and In Health

2009-06-30T06:51:00.000-07:00

No, I am definitely not married or on the track to getting married. Come to think of it, I don't think I've ever even had a relationship that lasted long enough for me to consider marriage. But that's beside the point. What the title of this post perhaps mockingly refers to is my attachment to Argentina, even with the fear of Swine Flu on the horizon.

Let me make clear to all of you right now that I am in good health and am taking the responsible measures appropriate for the prevention of Swine Flu infection. I must also inform you that all educational institutions, including the one at which I am visiting, have been closed for at least the next two weeks due to increasing reports of Swine Flu infections. This may mean a four week break due to the fact that in two weeks students here would normally go on winter vacation. There have been two deaths from COMPLICATIONS with Swine Flu, neither in areas near Rosario. The feelings of those I am working with at ARICANA are that the measure of shutting down educational institutions across the board is a drastic one and not a need for great worry.

On the flip side, this means I have nearly a month vacation myself. I'll have more time to talk with people--perhaps in Spanish even. The weather is a bit cooler than I expected, but that won't keep me from wandering about. What I need to find is one of those picturesque little cafes on an interesting street corner where I can look pensively out of the window as I nibble on some overpriced pastry and sip very strong coffee all while becoming chummy with the owner of the place who will regularly overcharge me by a peso or two because he knows I'm a foreigner and don't know the difference between good coffee and dish water. Ah, the life. I do love Argentina.

Chau.

Flag Day

2009-06-23T05:32:00.000-07:00

Who knew that in another country there would be a day to celebrate the creation of the country's flag? A big celebration at that! On 20 de Junio Argentina celebrates its Flag Day, especially so here in Rosario where the current flag was created and first raised. It is kind of like an independence holiday, except that Argentines celebrate a couple of other dates for their independence. I was invited along with my friend Laura to see all the action Saturday morning.

The celebration was centered right across the street from the Flag Memorial where a large group of covered stands were situated with a military band in front and scores of men and women from the different branches of the military lined up at attention and ready to march in parade. After the band played several numbers and several politicians gave long speeches (in Spanish, of course), the parade began to the loud music of the band. My friend's sister marched in the parade with a group of Red Cross doctors/students. Then, the procession of the longest flag in the world began (seen below). The story is that several years ago a group of women decided to create the longest flag in the world by piecing together segments of blue and white from Argentines all over the country and the world. Now it is the longest and very interesting to watch as you can imagine from the different pieces, each uniquely shaped and shaded, how widespread and diverse the Argentinean people are.

We had a great time at the parade and afterward on the steps of the Flag Memorial we drank Mate and watched further performances by the military band. There were many people watching, eating, drinking and having a great time. I will try and add a short video clip to this post so you can hear and see a little bit of the excitement for yourselves.

Chau.

Go for the Women, Stay for the Asado

2009-06-17T05:21:00.000-07:00

This past weekend I had the fortunate opportunity of attending two traditional Argentine asados. And asado is similar to a barbecue in the States. Friends and/or family come over to one's house for a large but simple meal mainly consisting of beef, beef, and more beef. Of course there are a couple of side dishes like potato salad or a simple lettuce and tomato salad drenched in oil and vinegar; and you have plenty of soda, wine, and beer. People stay around for hours talking, eating, singing, or whatever, but the main event is the preparation and ingestion of the beef.

The way in which the asado is prepared differs greatly from what I knew as barbecue (and I understand there to be at least three major types of barbecue in the States: Regular Barbecue made with chicken, pork, or beef slathered in an heavy barbecue sauce, North Carolina Barbecue usually of pulled pork drenched in spices and vinegar, and the best Texas Barbecue: a slow cooked beef brisket so tender you don't need a knife). The asado is cooked in a fire-pit of sorts. First, wood coals are lit and burned until they are extremely hot but no longer with a flame. Then the beef that has been simply prepared with a rubbing of coarse salt is placed on a grate over the hot coals and allowed to cook slowly. The cuts of meat you understand are quite different than what we have in the States: there are ribs but they consist mainly of the meat around not between the bone, there is a cut from the backside of the animal, a kind of sausage, and for the adventurous you can have intestines or blood-sausage. All of it is extremely delicious, and I recommend trying it all if you have the chance. I would like to cook asado in the States but I just don't know if all the necessary ingredients could be found: the fire-pit, different cuts of meat, and brave souls to eat my cooking. We shall see...

Chau.

My First Weekend

2009-06-09T12:14:00.000-07:00

My first weekend in Rosario was nicely filled with activities. Each night I was invited out with friends and had a wonderful time.

I have been attending an upper level conversation class for the last week and was invited by the class over to one of the students' house for dinner. We had a good nine or ten blocks walking to get there but finally arrived to a cozy apartment off of Oroño Blvd. There was pizza, wine, and wonderful new drink to me called Fernet, and singing to the guitar accompaniment of one of the students. It was a little embarrassing at time to realize how little I know the popular music in my own language when everyone else is singing along.

Saturday I slept almost half the day and got together with a couple of students from another class and a couple of their friends. We went to la Casa del Tango to listen to some tango performers. Although the audience was quite a bit older (as were the performers) we had a good time and enjoyed the music. Afterwards we went out for dinner on Pellegrini Ave and ended the night relatively early, that is about 12:30 AM.

Regrettably I stayed in for the better part of Sunday. I should have ventured out a bit more, maybe have gone to one of the parks or the "cinema". Nevertheless Sunday evening a friend I made last summer visiting Maryville from Rosario stopped by and we went out for coffee. We had a great conversation and she promised to introduce me to some of her friends she thought would enjoy hanging out (and speaking English) with me. There was also the suggestion of taking me with her to Buenos Aires next month for a visit. Let's hope that turns out.

As a side note it's good to remember that these students cover a vast range of ages. The students I was with Friday evening are from their late twenties to early forties. Many of them have careers in the science or teaching professions. Some of the other students are just finishing the equivalent of high school or in their first years at university. The great mystery of the Argentinos seems to be that the younger look older and the older look younger. Another reason to think that I may in fact be Argentine!

Chau.

Address Update

2009-06-04T10:21:00.000-07:00

I have received the address at which you may send me mail if you wish (even if you don't wish to do so you should). It is as follows:

William Sconiers

ARICANA

Buenos Aires 934

S2000CEQ Rosario

Pcia. Santa Fe

Argentina

Settling in

2009-06-04T06:50:00.000-07:00

I've been here less than a week but still as I walk down the streets I feel rather comfortable and confident. So far I have not been to many of the city sites. Mainly I have explored on foot looking for restaurants and simply getting a feel for the city. This weekend I hope to meet up with some young Argentinos who will show me a bit of where to go and what to do.

Let me give you a glimpse into where I've been staying. For the most part I am at ARICANA throughout the day. I go in the mornings around 9, have a break from about 12-3 in which I get lunch walk around and take a short nap, and then visit classes at ARICANA until 9 or 10 PM. Thus far I have not been out on the town at night. It is still strange to see so many people, I mean it is packed, at the grocery store on my street at 10 PM. I've been making dinner in my apartment.

A few words about the apartment and a couple of pictures: it is truly more than I expected. The spaces is good for a single person, I've figured out how to work the hot water heater (you have to really turn on the hot water for the heater to kick in), and the view is nice. There is a single gas heater which works so so but I have plenty of warm blankets for my bed. See what you think:

Among other happenings, my visits to classes have gone well and the teachers are lining up to have me come to their classes. The students young and old have lots of questions to ask me about myself and the US. I'm struggling with my spanish and am wondering if I should try to take some formal classes. We shall see...

Chau.

My first day in Rosario

2009-06-01T16:09:00.000-07:00

What a trip! After more than 24 hours of travel and a night of sporadic sleep due to excitement, anticipation, and the regular but to me unaccustomed noise of city dwelling, I woke to a new day in a new city living at a different rate and in a different language than I have ever had the fortune in which to be immersed. I must admit that my first morning was not all roses, waking to my alarm clock at 7:00 meant I was up before the sun (a condition I detest) because here I am in the fall-winter season; I quickly used up the hot water in my tiny hot water heater while trying to adjust the water to a temperature I wanted, ironically not steaming hot but a comfortable warm. Cold showers, no bueno.

At 8:30 I met with Señor I’smael the General Manager of ARICANA to show me the way from my apartment to the institute. I am living about six blocks from ARICANA. On the way we stopped for coffee and a little breakfast, a few croissant-like rolls called medias de lune I believe. At ARICANA I met with several directors and secretaries and was given a tour of the building. We also discussed what kind of teaching I will do during my stay and other activities. I was given a break around 11:30 and asked to return around 4:00 (the institute is closed from 12:00 to 2:00 and from then there are different classes until 10:00). From 4:30 to 7:00 I met different teachers and administrators including the President of ARICANA and two board members. They are all very excited to have me here and eager to make my stay enjoyable.

I feel very confident that my experience at ARICANA will be good and look forward to the coming months. Though the people may be shy about speaking english they are very courteous and friendly. Soon I will have an address to which you may send mail if you wish and although I have forgotten the cord to connect my camera to the computer, I will start looking for one so that you may see some of what I have the pleasure of seeing.

Chau.

Still in Tejas

2009-05-27T13:49:00.000-07:00

I'm setting up this blog while still in Houston. This coming Saturday I will fly from here to D.C. and from there straight to Buenos Aires. It will be a long day of travel. After a night in Tango City I will travel to Rosario by bus, about 3 hours, and meet with my contact Daniela Frillocchi, the Academic Director of ARICANA.

I'm really looking forward to this trip. Though I will not have my computer, I should be able to semi-regularly visit internet cafés to update this blog. Thanks for your thoughts and prayers. I look forward to telling you the stories of my adventures.